Seeing Newfoundland in Six Vignettes

by Katharine Weinmann | December 7, 2015

 

I

Table Lands, Gros Morne

Day 2

The vastness of this Island’s spirit,

holding the Earth’s very own heart

exposed to all the elements.

 

A paradox of deep beauty, magnificence and awe,

with a cutting desperation for survival.

 

A people who, fierce and proud –

despite what we mainlanders think –

know what matters.

 

This mater.

This mother.

Earth.

 

 

II

Woody Point, Gros Morne

Early Sunday Summer Solstice Morn

 

Norris Point and Gros Morne mountain from the Woody Point Lighthouse.

A Bonne Bay full of Sun on this Sacred Sunday Summer Solstice morn.

 

Shhhh…the only sounds…

 

A choir of birds.

Robin singing, thrilling, trilling.

Black Crow cawing.

Lark warbling.

Red winged Blackbird wooing.

 

Blood red blossoms about to burst forth on the front yard crab apple tree.

 

Water softly lapping on the stony shore.

 

Locals sitting on their front porch stoops,

sipping coffee,

smoking the day’s first cigarette.

 

The “from aways” laughter and chatter break the spell.

 

I stand on yet another threshold

looking for the middle way.

 

III

Norris Point, Gros Morne

Our Summer Solstice Prayer

 

Day 3 - sea kayak on bonne bay

Intention held in the hearts and minds of twelve women

wild to witness the whale,

grand dame of our species.

 

A blow…once, twice

seen along the rock and tree faced cliff.

 

Colour full kayaks skim the surface,

Carry us Home.

Our hands drum the chant of welcome,

Invoking her wisdom, calling her in.

 

A tail sighted…once, twice

breaking though the glassy sea.

 

A sudden breach.

Our collective Heart leaps with the closeness of her show.

 

A prayer received and delivered.

 

 

 

IV

Woody Point, Gros Morne

Last Breakfast at the Granite Coffee Shop

 

Slideshow 1 - Climbing the Gulley up Gros Morne Mt

 

“I’d be nervous all the time,” explains the sweet young server

(can’t be more than twenty-two, eyebrow piercing twinkles a delicate blue, matches her eyes),

sharing a bit about her baby girl,

why she’ll stay put on Woody Point

where the closest traffic light is in Corner Brook,

so Adrianna can run

free.

 

 

V

Western Brook Pond, Gros Morne

 Day 4

At last.

That long awaited landscape.

The one I first saw on TV.

You know, the one that grabbed my Heart and fired my Imagination.

The one with the cliffs.

 

“I’d like to go there one day.”

 

So what fired the Imagination of those ancient mariners?

The ones whose fiords evoke the very one I’m travelling down

right now?

 

 

VI

Long Time Home

L’Anse aux Meadows and Sherwood Park

 Day 6

Two days travelling then waiting. Anticipation grows with the wish to be settled back home. Thankfully all uneventful, as a day later, and for several more, re-routing, premature landings, delays, all in response to bomb threats on my airline. The world’s madness – is it more than ever, or the consequence of instantaneous connection – hits my consciousness broadside, closer to home.

 

And what of those ancient mariners and the many days’ and weeks’ and months’ anticipation and sailing across the ocean? What bold imagination and steel-hearted courage, madness even, drove them from their Nordic homeland to what we now call Iceland, Greenland? And then further south, to be the first of their kind, my kind, to settle on this, my home and native land?

 

L’Anse aux Meadows, the very tip of Newfoundland’s northern most shore. One thousand years ago. We now know centuries before the likes of men we call Cabot, Columbus, Cartier.

 

When I recall the day I disembarked from the van, set foot on and looked out over that first “from away settlement,” over the bare expanse of naked land and sea and sky – cold and windy and grey and raining – I can hardly imagine, in a thousand years, their first reaction to seeing and setting foot. Unless I search in my own DNA and evoke that of my father’s, when he first saw, from the ship carrying him across the ocean from Germany, and set foot on the land that he would claim and make home, that day over a mid-century ago.

 

 

For more on the trip that inspired these vignettes, click here: Get Trip Info


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