Day 1: 今日は (HELLO) TOKYO!

Arrive at Tokyo Haneda Airport (HND) or Narita International Airport (NRT) and relax on a smooth, stress-free transfer to our hotel in Tokyo.

Tonight, we’ll meet our expert guide and gather for our inaugural Wild Women dinner in the glittery capital of Japan. Tokyo is the world’s most populous metropolis. The city is nearly vibrating with neon and yet there are countless green spaces and parks. It’s an endless mix of contemporary architecture, trendy cafes, electronic giants, anime, harajuku, Buddhist temples, Edo Castle and the spike of the 634m (2,080ft) Tokyo Skytree. 

We’ll find sleep easily after our first big introduction to the sprawling city that was formerly known as Edo.

Meals Included: Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Washington Shinjuku Hotel
How much further? Approximately 1 hour (airport transfer to hotel)
Roadmap: International Airport to Shinjuku Hotel, Tokyo

Day 2: THE NAKASENDO SAMURAI TRAIL

After a rise and shine breakfast at our hotel, we’ll board an early express train (approximately 3 hrs) from Shinjuku Station to Shiojiri Station. Here, we will begin our grounding walk on the ancient Nakasendo Samurai Trail. The Nakasendō was one of the five historical routes of the Edo period and one of just two that vitally connected Edo to Kyoto. There were 69 stations or post towns between Edo and Kyoto, crossing through several provinces and stretching 540km (336 miles).

Post towns (shukuba in Japanese) were originally station-like rest stops purposely built along travel routes to offer weary travellers accommodation, sundries and relaxation. Shiojiri and Nagiso are two of the post towns along the ancient trail of the Nakasendo that we will visit.

On our soulful journey visiting Shiojiri and Nagiso we will walk in the ghostly footsteps of monks, merchants and samurais along time-worn mossy cobblestones through rural villages and tall stands of forest of the Kiso River. The Kiso Valley is verdant and fragrant with sky-high Hinoki cypress, Japanese umbrella pines and cedar trees and dotted with several shrines and temples.

Today’s journey ends in Tsumago, where we will stay in a traditional Minshuku (Japanese-style inn). This old town is bewitching with its neatly restored lattice wooden houses, tiny shops, charming inns, museums and car-free main road. Local laws prohibit any demonstration of modern life–including parked cars, phone and power lines. How civilized!

Tonight we’ll experience the simplicity of a tatami stay. These traditional Japanese rooms have tatami (Japanese rush reed) flooring with sliding doors (fusuma) versus hinged doors.

Today’s pilgrimage (walking): 8km/5mi (approximately 2-3 hours, depending on the group’s pace)

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Tatami, Tsumago
How much further? 2-3 hours (walking)
Roadmap: Shinjuku to Tsumago

Day 3: THE VILLAGES OF KISO VALLEY

After breakfast and some revitalizing green tea, we’ll walk from Tsumago to Magome. This trail will wind us through immense forests, over Magome Pass (790m/2,600ft) and along the jade rice paddies and small villages of the Kiso Valley. We’ll also see the water wheel by the granary and the Odaki and Medaki Waterfall (Male and Female Waterfall). Legend has it that the waterfall’s natural power will reinvigorate the body, mind and soul and transport us into another world. 

In Magome, we’ll reach the end of our Nakesendo route on the main street. Traditional wooden houses line the street like Tsumago, sandwiched between rustic tea houses and soba (Japanese noodles made from buckwheat flour) restaurants. 

We’ll linger a little longer in Magome before taking a 25-minute bus to Nakatsugawa station. From here, we’ll board the express train to Nagoya (approximately 1 hour), then transfer to the Kintetsu Nagoya express train to Ise (around 2 hrs). Don’t worry, our fearless guide will be navigating all the stations and transfers with us! In Ise, we’ll have a 10-minute local bus ride to our onsen hotel.

Today’s pilgrimage (walking): 8km/5mi (2-3 hours)

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Ancient Rest Inn Ikyu, Ise
How much further? 25 minutes (bus), 3 hours (express train), 10 minutes (bus)
Roadmap: Tsumago to Ise

Day 4: WOMEN OF THE SEA

We’ll have an early start in order to beat the crowds to see Ise Grand Shrine’s glory at sunrise. Afterall, this Shinto shrine is dedicated to the sun goddess, Amaterasu.

The silence and stillness of the morning enhances the deep sense of spirituality and peace that visitors experience in the face of this powerful shrine known as the “Soul of Japan.”

We’ll head back to Toba via local bus (approximately 30 minutes) and hop on another local bus (around 45 minutes) to Osatsu-cho, the home of the lean and mean Ama divers. Known as the “ama-san”, this group of traditional female free divers are celebrated for their unique culture and customs as well as their exceptional diving and pearl harvesting skills. “Ama” means “woman of the sea” in Japanese and these fearless pros routinely dive down to an astounding depth of 25m (82ft) without the aid of any modern scuba equipment or tools. They collect shellfish, abalone and seaweed in addition to pearls for a living. The ama have been practicing this heroic art for over 2,000 to 3,000 years.

Traditionally, ama would wear a headscarf and simple fundoshi ( loincloth) or a garment wrapped around their hips when diving. During the pearl industry heyday, when foreign customers began to observe the ama at work, they adopted a full-body white isogi for modesty. It’s believed that white was chosen as it magnified their size under water, deterring sharks in their radius. Since the 1950s, many ama have shifted to sleek wetsuits and masks to make their job more efficient.

We’ll meet and chat with an Ama diver over lunch (or tea, depending on the time of our visit) in an Ama hut. We might have the opportunity to see one of these amazing women in action.

After this deep dive into extreme legendary female empowerment, we’ll board an express train to Kyoto (approximately 2.5 hrs) where we’ll check into our hotel, refresh and relax before dinner.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Dhawa Yura, Kyoto
How much further? 30 minutes (bus), 45 minutes (bus), 2.5 hours (express train)
Roadmap: Ise to Kyoto

Day 5: A BIG TASTE OF KYOTO

We’ll begin our day in the very best way at Enko-ji, a Zen temple in northern Kyoto. Our meditative stroll through the gardens will be rich in colour–either from the autumn foliage or brilliant cherry blossoms (depending on the season). In the main hall, we will be able to marvel at the Buddhist statues and traditional architecture of the temple.

Be sure to take some time to sit and absorb the peaceful atmosphere of the temple, reflective pond and the foliage of the maples that flourish here.

After our temple visit we’ll head to the nearby Ichijoji Station and take the Eizan Line to Demachiyanagi Station and walk 15 minutes to the Shimogamo Shrine, one of the oldest and most important Shinto shrines in Kyoto. We’ll have time to explore the immaculate grounds and see the impressive architecture and design of the buildings that has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Lunch will be at a local restaurant where we’ll try traditional Kyoto cuisine like Kyo-kaiseki or obanzai. Kaiseki revolves around seasonality, freshness, simplicity and visual appeal that is enhanced by colour, texture, garnishes, plating and most importantly, taste. To be considered genuine obanzai, half the ingredients must be grown or processed in Kyoto and consider the five core spiritual elements.

After this satiating edible education, we’ll head back to the Shimogamo Shrine to participate in a traditional tea ceremony experience at a tea house. Tea will be followed by a walk along the Kamogawa River which translates appropriately to “duck river.” It’s a popular spot to wander and dine as balconies overlook the river and the steady stream of locals who run, walk, relax and paint along the banks.

We’ll also visit the tranquil Tadasu no Mori Forest next to the shrine–this forest is  known and beloved for its remarkable 600-year-old trees. Feeling hugged by the natural surroundings of our day, we’ll return to our hotel in Kyoto or continue exploring the city if the group wishes.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Dhawa Yura, Kyoto
How much further? Not far! We’ll be travelling by foot around Kyoto today!
Roadmap: Kyoto

Day 6: THE WOMEN TEA FARMERS OF SHIGA

Today we’ll leave the buzz of Kyoto to visit a Japanese green tea production region in the Asamiya district of southern Shiga. The surreal green tea plantations completely cover the hillsides in a mesmerizing way. 

After breakfast, we’ll take a short 15 minute ride on the local train from Kyoto station to JR Ishiyama station to meet our local guide at 10AM for the Asamiya tea experience.

During this 4.5 hour immersive in all things tea we’ll meet local women tea farmers or women who are in the tea business. In their skilled company, we’ll learn how to pick and roast the green tea leaves and the fine art of brewing a perfect cup of tea during a tasting session. The tasting will also help us discern the subtle differences and aroma of tea blends and how they are influenced by the seasons and weather conditions.

After the tea farm experience, with the comforting scent of roasted tea locked deep in our senses, we’ll transfer to lunch at a nearby restaurant. In the afternoon, we will visit two pottery studios, meet a talented female potter and go on an easy walking tour around the village.

We’ll return to our hotel and gather later for dinner and possibly, another cup of green tea!

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Dhawa Yura, Kyoto
How much further? 15 minutes (train)
Roadmap: Kyoto

Day 7: SACRED MITOKUSAN

Today we’ll take an early express train and travel deep into the expanse of the Japanese countryside as to Misasa Onsen. This 3.5 journey slices through some magnetic scenery and we’ll be warmly welcomed to the region that has been a sanctuary for those seeking resolve in Misasa Onsen’s healing waters for over 850 years.

After lunch, if Mother Nature is cooperative, we’ll embark on a short pilgrimage at nearby Mitokusan. This thousand-year-old temple is built miraculously and impossibly into a rock face of the 900m (2,953ft) Mount  Mitoku. Mitokusan is considered one of the three most sacred sites of the Shugendo religion (a form of mountain asceticism-shamanism). In keeping with the connective nature of Shugendo practices, the path utilizes tree roots and chains until pilgrims reach Nageiredo.

This pilgrimage is said to purify the “six roots of perception” and the invisible spiritual power of the founder of Shugendo, En no Ozuno, is almost palpable on this climb. However, due to the highly technical nature of this hike, it will be totally weather-dependent and up to our guide to gauge the ability and comfort level of the group. If it’s raining, the hike will not be possible.

Our group can also opt to simply enjoy the serene setting of the lower temple complex rather than make the adventurous and challenging hike up the pilgrimage trail. For those who would prefer to stay at ground level, we can join the priests and make tracings.

Please note: Due to the already slippery and daunting nature of this steep hike, it will not be possible if it’s raining.

In the evening, we’ll have time to soak in the hot springs at our hotel, a neighboring facility or possibly the open-air public hot baths (depending on the group’s interest). The baths are also said to purify the “six senses” so we will be extra perceptive and purified after today’s experiences.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Misasakan
How much further? 3.5 hours (express train)
Roadmap: Kyoto to Misasa Osen

Day 8: BIKES AND BAMBOO

Today we will experience the indelible scenery of Mount Daisen on foot and by bicycle. First, we will travel by bus to an area near Daisen Waterfall where we’ll hike around 8 km/5 mi (4hrs, depending on the group’s pace) through the dramatic forest to Kawadoko. This area is coveted for its spectacular autumn colors when the forests transform into an unbelievable palate.

We’ll be following an ancient nature trail used by mountain priests and warrior monks for several centuries. This is the truest description of shinrin-yoku or “forest bathing”. This practice emerged in Japan in the 1980s as an all-natural prescription for burn-out and to help inspire reconnection to wild spaces.

After lunch, we’ll embark on a mostly downhill 3-hour bike ride through swatches of forest, bamboo groves and farmland while taking in the captivating views of Mihonoseki Bay below. On our way down the mountain we can stop and visit a female potter who uses precise and ancient Jomon era techniques in her work. Her studio is located in a very unique complex of buildings made from natural materials such as grasses and bamboo.

Today’s walk in the park: 8km (5mi), approximately 4 hours depending on the group’s pace

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Sanrakusou
How much further?  4 hours (walking), 3 hours (biking)
Roadmap: Misasa Osen to Mt. Daisen

Day 9: KUNIGA COAST WALKING TRACK

This morning we’ll have a one-hour transfer (by private vehicle) to the small and scenic port of Shichirui. Here, we will board a ferry and cruise 2.5 hours to the volcanic Nishinoshima Island. In 1974, this isle actually grew in size when an eruption exposed submarine land. The Oki Islands and the magnificent cliffs of the Kuniga Coast are a designated UNESCO Global Geopark. Sites and landscapes of international geological significance are managed with a holistic concept of protection, education and sustainable development under the UNESCO Global Geopark identification. Currently, there are 195 UNESCO Global Geoparks in 48 countries.

After lunch in the port area we will travel by taxi to the top of the Kuniga Coast Walking Track. This spectacular walking trail passes along the edge of Matengai Cliff, which rises 257 meters (843ft) above the Sea of Japan below. The 2km (1.2mi) trail heads down through pastures populated with grazing cows and horses to the impressive Tsūtenkyō Arch, Kuniga Bay and Kuniga Shrine and takes approximately 90 minutes on foot.

In the port area you will meet a special group of smiley senior women who play taiko drums and make traditional crafts together. We will also be able to try our hand at drumming.

After our fun in the company of the jovial drumming ladies, we’ll take a short inter-island ferry (7 minutes) to Ama Island to our luxe hotel for the night.

Today’s walk in the park: Short and sweet! It’s 2km (1.2 miles)

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Entô Hotel
How much further? 1 hour (car), 2.5 hours (ferry), 1.5 hours (walking), 7 minutes (ferry)
Roadmap: Mt. Daisen to Ama-Cho (Oki Islands)

Day 10: CYCLING THE OKI ISLANDS

After breakfast we’ll explore this wind and wave-sculpted archipelago in the Sea of Japan by bicycle (or e-bike) and meet some of the local women who are the entrepreneurial and environmental stewards of this UNESCO designated Global Geopark. The cluster of islands are part of the Daisen-Oki National Park and only four of the Oki Islands are inhabited.

Activities here may include visiting an organic vegetable farm, a sea cucumber farm or making traditional crafts under the tutelage of these talented women.

During the cycling tour, we’ll be sure to take five and have lunch with a group of local women  working hard to maintain cultural  traditions while also making positive, sustainable changes.

The Oki diet is testament to this as the islanders menu is based wholly on the season and a steadfast focus on life led in rhythm with nature. Fish, shellfish and seaweed are mainstays–beef from the wagyu cattle dominates menus too. The abundant and pure water springs are a lifeline to rice and Japanese sake production on the island.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Entô Hotel
How much further? ~4 hours (biking)
Roadmap: Ama Cho (Oki Islands)

Day 11: SUSHI ROLL

In the morning, we’ll take a 2-hour ferry ride to the mainland and then have a 30-minute car transfer to the Yonago Airport to catch our flight to Tokyo. With full memory cards and a highlight reel spooling in our head and heart, we’ll transfer to our hotel and gather for an unforgettable dinner at a female sushi chef’s restaurant!

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: Tokyo
How much further? 2 hours (ferry), 30 minutes (car), 1.5 hours (flight to Tokyo)
Roadmap: Ama Cho (Oki Islands) to Tokyo

Day 12: 決別 (GOODBYE) TOKYO

After an early breakfast, we’ll take a group transfer to Tokyo Haneda International Airport (HND) or Narita International Airport (NRT) where we’ll squeeze each other goodbye and share a few laughs and tears after our remarkable not-long-enough 12-day journey together.

It’s time to exchange contact info, photos and ideas for a reunion! Where next? Another pilgrimage perhaps?

Meals Included: Breakfast
Tonight’s Sweet Sleep: In the window seat of the plane home!
How much further? Three Hollywood movies, approximately 100 pages of a good book, 2 cups of nostalgic green tea and a few extended naps.