Landing in Longyearbyen, Svalbard’s Gateway to the Arctic
Touching down in Longyearbyen, Svalbard, the world’s northernmost settlement with a population of 2,500 hearty souls, we could feel the thrill of adventure in the crisp Arctic air. During the short bus ride from the airstrip, we spotted our first wildlife: a docile reindeer gracefully making its way through a field in the heart of town. After settling in, we spent a few hours exploring this surprisingly well-appointed town.
Highlights included visiting a polar bear exhibit, where we learned about the challenges these magnificent creatures face in a changing climate, and a local museum showcasing the history and culture of Svalbard. Strolling through charming boutique shops, we visited a female silversmith whose Svalbard-inspired pieces motivated many of us to purchase keepsakes adorned with motifs of polar bears, snow-capped mountains, and the icy waters of the bay.
What Wildlife You’ll See on a Svalbard Expedition
I had barely unpacked in my cabin when a call came over the ship’s intercom: “Polar bear sighted at twelve o’clock!” Passengers hurried to the observation deck, binoculars in hand, to witness a sleeping polar bear on the shore. This was just the beginning of our polar bear sightings. Over the next few days, we would encounter a mother and her cubs nursing on an ice floe, their fluffy bodies barely contrasting against the stark white landscape. Although we kept a respectful distance to avoid disturbing them, powerful scopes allowed us to observe these majestic creatures closely, providing a sense of connection to the wild.
Dinner on our second night was interrupted when half the diners leapt up, drawn to the starboard windows by a fellow traveller spotting a Minke whale. We were treated to a spectacular show as the whale breached the surface multiple times before diving below the surface and disappearing from sight. Its sheer size, proximity to the ship and elegance left us in awe, and we returned to our meals, eyes glued to the windows, hoping for more sightings.
Earlier that day, a thrilling zodiac cruise revealed colourful puffins alongside other seabirds like murres, auks, and guillemots. As we navigated the icy waters, we spotted a bearded seal lounging on a small bergy bit (small iceberg); it lifted its head to acknowledge our presence and deemed us not to be a threat before dozing off again. Our guide plucked a chunk of ice from the water, claiming it was from a glacier dating back 10,000 years! We marvelled at its weight and density, noting the pockmarks on its surface from its journey through the ocean. This tangible piece of history was a reminder of the ancient forces that shaped this incredible landscape.
The Walrus Encounter: Svalbard’s Coastal Colonies
One of the most unforgettable experiences was our encounter with a walrus haulout. As we approached the shore, the sight of these enormous, tusked creatures piled lazily on the rocky shore was both captivating and amusing. With their bulbous bodies and sluggish movements, the walruses seemed unconcerned with their surroundings. They barely moved, except to reposition for comfort or lazily challenge one another with gentle nudges.
The guide informed us that walruses can weigh up to 2,000 pounds, and observing their size up close was awe-inspiring. We got close — walruses move so slowly on land that there’s essentially no threat. Watching them snooze, their whiskered faces resting on each other and the smooth stones of the beach, was a testament to the relaxed pace of life in such an unforgiving environment. Their awkward inching and slithering out of the water made it obvious why they hadn’t moved more than a few feet from shore before collapsing into an exhausted heap.
As we watched, a few walruses engaged in playful sparring, using their tusks in a gentle display of dominance. It was a reminder of their social nature, and witnessing their interactions added depth to our understanding of these remarkable animals. We left the haulout with a greater appreciation for the unique wildlife of the Arctic.
The Polar Plunge
The following day, we took our adventurous spirit to new heights with the polar plunge. We jumped from the ship into water barely above freezing, surrounded by floating ice chunks. The rush of adrenaline was palpable as we braced ourselves for the icy shock. Nothing is as invigorating as facing such a challenge together! Afterward, a handful of us soaked in the hot tub on the back deck, where we spotted a bowhead whale in the distance, while warming our chilled bones. Sharing these moments of exhilaration created an unbreakable bond among our group.
This Is What Exploring the Arctic Actually Feels Like
As we ventured to the top of the Svalbard archipelago, we pointed our ship northward until we reached the edge of the sea ice. Our expedition leader told us we were one of only twelve vessels to get that far north this season, making for a rare experience.
One of our most thrilling moments came when an unidentified sea creature was spotted in the distance. Was it bowhead whales or perhaps the elusive narwhal? While we couldn’t identify it accurately, a guide later shared a photo of a single long tusk clearly visible above the surface, confirming we had glimpsed one of the world’s rarest animals! The excitement was contagious, and we couldn’t stop talking about it during our daily debrief.
A snowy zodiac ride through broken sea ice proved to be quite the adventure for some of our group. Two of the boats were blocked from returning the way we came, forcing us to take a chilly hour-long detour back to the ship, where hot lunch and comforting soup awaited us. The experience was thrilling—a reminder that the Arctic is as unpredictable as it is beautiful.
The Final Days at Sea in Svalbard
As our journey continued, we were treated to more polar bears, walruses, seabirds, and reindeer. However, one elusive creature remained on our wishlist: the arctic fox. On our second-to-last day, while hiking at Camp Millar, a former gold prospecting site, we finally spotted one. The tiny fox, dressed in its grey and white summer coat, scampered among the rocks, almost invisible in the rocky landscape. Only by scanning for movement could we track it as it carried an unlucky auk in its jaws.
As we sat in awe, we soon saw another two foxes above us, followed by two more scurrying by shortly after. These sightings completed our wish list of Arctic wildlife and filled us with excitement. The thrill of spotting such a rare creature was the perfect capstone to our adventure.
On our final day, we hiked alongside a herd of reindeer through a site of a former coal mine, marvelling at their resilience in the desolate landscape. Our afternoon zodiac cruise took us along a gently calving glacier’s face, where we witnessed chunks of ice breaking away and crashing into the sea. The sight was mesmerizing and a poignant reminder of nature’s power and beauty.
Celebratory Reflections
As we returned to the ship, we felt a bittersweet mix of gratitude and longing, knowing our adventure was coming to an end. That evening, we enjoyed a celebratory dinner in a private dining room, reminiscing about our shared experiences and the wonders of the Svalbard archipelago, and even singing a few songs together with our dessert! The camaraderie we built during those endless summer nights was just as memorable as the wildlife we encountered.
We slept soundly to the gentle rocking of the ship; we reflected on how each of us had been subtly changed by our experiences. We had faced challenges, embraced adventure, and shared laughter, all while learning about the fragile beauty of the Arctic ecosystem.
Looking Ahead: The Next Adventure
The only challenge now was choosing our next adventure. Would we return to the Arctic to explore Inuit culture in Canada and Greenland? Or perhaps seek epic wildlife in Antarctica or the Galápagos? Maybe we’d lace up our hiking boots for Switzerland, Scotland, or Bhutan, or even mount horses in the Azores or Iceland. The possibilities were endless.
As we disembarked back in Longyearbyen, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of connection to this extraordinary place and the remarkable women I shared it with. Our journey doesn’t have to end here. The world is full of possibilities, and I can’t wait to explore them together with a fabulous group of adventurous women.
Join Us: Svalbard Explorer, Best of High Arctic Norway, 2027
Join us for our Svalbard Explorer, Best Of High Arctic Norway in 2027. ( This trip is currently 18% off)
We highly recommend booking your spot as soon as possible, as space on our small ship expeditions is extremely limited and some of our 2027 expeditions are already full! This is one you won’t want to miss.
Have questions? Reach out to our team at adventure@wildwomenexpeditions.com
